Top Ten Lessons Learned When Surfing, in no particular order
1. The ocean is the boss. When playing tennis, one doesn´t go to check the courts to see it is possible to play. Wind, swell, tides... waves are given to us, we don´t take them.
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3. Paddling out is a excercise in patience. Duck dive/turtle roll, paddle after wiping off water from face, snot from nose, repeat. The progress is measured in little increments.
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4. Sometimes the ocean doesn´t let you ge out, and that is that.
Image from:http://www.salesteam1.com/man...View image on Bing 5. Riding waves, particulaly standup waves, is something that cannot be bought. I can pay the money to fly own here, rent the board, wear the gear, get the tan, but it is all no substitute for time spent in the water. Entitlement is not workable.
Image from:http://payday-z.com/dollar-dr...View image on Bing 6. It is a fine line between putting yourself in position where one can be successful and putting oneself in a position of being stetched and risking frustration in the process.
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9. No learning without falling.
10.
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